While the Satun province remains largely forgotten about
when it comes to Thailand, it is a diamond in the rough. This little province
on the southwest border of Thailand is the jumping off point for those
traveling to many of the nearby islands and to Malaysia. There are many things
that make Satun unique, and it is well worth a stop along your travels.
(Hat Sai Yao sunsets)
The first stop you need to make in Mueang Satun (Satun City),
is @On’s. On owns a restaurant, bar, offers accommodation, help with
transportation, rents motorbikes and cars, and has a plethora of knowledge to
share about Satun and the surrounding area! (I actually rented my apartment and
motorbike from On while teaching in Satun for 5 months!) Also, if you are
looking to make some Thai friends, On’s is the place to do it because the staff
is wonderful and are so kind and helpful. For foreigners travelling through, or
staying for a while, @On’s is an invaluable resources and a very welcoming
place to hang out.
(@On's, the most comfortable place in Satun)
@On’s has it all, but if you’re looking for something
different, there are many other places to eat, sleep, and be merry. There are a
few hotels and guesthouses for those just travelling through, and more
permanent living places for those looking to stay for a while. Finding food to eat should not be a problem,
and I swear there is a new restaurant opening every week!
This months favorites are Tonruk and Low Pressure Area. Tonruk is a cute little café that offers
meals, coffee, desserts (including the most amazing sweet mango ice cream ever)
and has aircon, so who wouldn’t like it?! Low Pressure Area is a coffee shop
across the street from Big C and has Starbucks worthy drinks for a fourth of
the price. LPA is owned by a Thai writer and his wife. They also have books in
Thai and English to buy and checkout! Coffee is quite the thing here and is my
personal favorite sweet treat, so trying to narrow down all of the options is
quite difficult!
(Tonruk's roti and ice cream combo of deliciousness)
For those who enjoy hanging around the city, there are many
places you need to visit during your stay! The Kunden Mansion or Satun National
Museum is the first. I stopped at this lovely little museum my first week in
Satun and thoroughly enjoyed myself. For the cheap admission price of 50 Baht,
you get a personalized tour of the mansion and get a small taste of the culture
of Satun. The museum is gorgeous and was originally built for the king in case
he was to ever visit Satun. It has since served as governor’s mansions, a
formal meeting place and even Thai HQ during WWII. You even get to play a game
with the staff that is called Macau and is essentially the same as the marble
game Mancala.
(Kunden Mansion: Satun National Museum)
There are also some nice parks you can explore, take a drive
around the monkey mountain and hang out in the shade of the caves, and be sure
to take a walk around the river. There are also many markets and festivals all
throughout the year in addition to the weekly food markets happening in the
city. My favorite is the Saturday Night Market down by the clock tower. There
are all sorts of vendors and it is a great place to hang around if you have
some time. The markets all range in size and are pretty diverse in the types of
products they offer.
(The river walkway is fairly new and worth it!)
If you are more adventurous and like a romp in nature every
now and then, well, you are in a good place! These little adventures were
always my favorites, and are some of my best memories of Satun. But no matter
where you go, make sure to bring bug spray and sunscreen cause you’ll need it! Oh
and be sure to keep some Band-Aids handy (because you never know when you’ll
fall and scrape up you arm).
First off, let’s talk about the “beaches”. They are far from
the main city and barley pass. The water around Satun is murky and kinda gross
because it’s mostly mangroves, and the beaches are rocky and the sand is
coarse. Also, because the majority of the people in Satun are Muslim, you will
feel aca-akward hanging out in your bikini. So I suggest finding the little
hidden beaches around the main areas. Here you can sun bathe till your heart’s
content. And great little seafood restaurants are all along the beach strip. Be
sure to make an effort to go to Pak Bara Pier because there’s lots of food
places, nice secluded beach areas, a pretty boardwalk in the national park
around the mangrove cliffs, and your #1 (and only) place to get a ferry to the
nearby islands.
(Hat Sai Yao and Pak Bara Beaches)
The islands are also worth a visit. The most popular and
well known in Koh Lipe, a cresent shaped island far off the mainland. Its got a
nice chill vibe, but is expensive. Its also been put on the tourist’s radar and
becoming a more popular place to visit. Be sure to book accommodation earlier
rather than later because the price will go up and they could run out of places
to stay during the high season! If you want to get away from the crowds, I
would suggest visiting Koh Tarutao. This is a larger island and hour ferry off
the mainland and is a national park. This island was formerly used as a prison
until the inmates became pirates and looted all along the Andaman coast. There
is so much history and some amazing places to see, like a stunning pier, a neat
cave, huge beaches, and trickling waterfalls. There is something for everyone
(unless your looking for a shopping spree). Book a room in advance because
there are not many places to stay and the do fill up quickly! If there’s no
rooms and you don’t mind having things stolen by monkeys, there are tents
available for rent and you can post up right on the beach. Island vacations are
always nice and there are many to choose from in the south!
A must see in Satun is the Dragon’s Spine. This is an
expanse of land that is only accessible during low tide. As the water comes in,
the land disappears. This is a short longtail ride from various piers along the
Satun coast. It is helpful if you have a friend who speaks Thai to communicate
what you want to do because this is not a well-know tourist destination and not
many people actually know how to get there. Be sure to call ahead and make sure
someone is available to take you and your friends because that’s the polite
thing to do. There are also little island that are connected to the land bridge
that are worth a jaunt.
(The Dragon's Spine)
If you like dark, damp places and are not too
claustrophobic, head to the northern part of the province and visit some caves!
But bring your own flashlight for safe measure! Phu Pha Phet Cave is the
world’s THIRD LARGEST cave and you wont read about it in any guidebook. If
you’re feeling confident and are with friends, skip getting a tour guide
because it is so much more fun to get lost on your own! This cave has so many
different caverns and areas to explore, that you could easily spend a whole day
wandering through its vast chambers. The highlight of the cave is a natural
skylight leading out to the limestone mountains where you can explore further
in the daylight. But it’s a steep assent and the rope to climb with is not the
best. In the same area as Phu Pha Phet is the Jed Chot Cave. This cave is very
unique because you can rent a kayak and row through the cave with a guide who
helps to navigate through the rocks and shallows. There are some very neat rock
formations and skylights all around and the cave is home to thousands of bats! This
is very enjoyable because you are on the water and its fun to hop out and swim around,
as much of the river is fairly deep. If you are looking for a kayaking
adventure, then this is the one for you.
(Caves caves caves)
Now for those days where you just need to get some relief
from the heat, but can’t get to an island or are sick of the rocky beaches, hit
up some waterfalls! Up by Phu Pha Phet and Jed Chot caves is the Wong Sai Thong
waterfall. This waterfall is so beautiful because it is tiered and the water is
cold and a clear blue! This is a popular spot for kids to slide down the soft
rock and do flips from the highest tier. Namtok Wong Sai Thong is the most
stunning waterfall I have yet to see in Thailand and is worth the stop! Head
out to the Thale Ban National Park to experience some other waterfalls that
litter the grounds. Ya Roi is a fan favorite, and if you are willing to hike up
off the trail for 5 minutes, you’ll discover a secret pool where the waterfall
comes right down. It is a lovely place to escape the heat of the day and spend
an hour relaxing in the cool water.
(Namtok Wong Sai Thong)
General info about the city:
There are three roads you NEED to be familiar with because
they make getting around so much easier. The back road, where @On’s is located
and goes behind the clock tower. The fitness center and some pretty decent
restaurants are on this road. The main road is next in line and will take you
anywhere and is a direct shot to the highways. You can find everything along
this road. And finally, the bypass road is the next road over. The bus station
is located on this road and if you need a break from the traffic on the main
road, this is it! There are a few
supermarkets to choose from- Big C, Tesco Lotus, and Makro are the most
convenient. Big C is right outside the main part of the city and Makro is
another 5 minutes drive. Tesco is farther out and takes between 20-30 minutes
to get there. There is public transportation, but it is not the best. There are
orange tuk tuks that can take you anywhere and then there are the orange songtaews
that go along the main road all day. They are not very reliable and take a long
time, so if you’re on a schedule, you’re better off taking a tuk tuk or
motorcycle taxi. There is one bus station in the city and various others around
the province. One main stop for vans is in La Ngu and here you can make
transfers to other provinces and get to Pak Bara. There is no train station and
the closest airport is in Hat Yai.
(Traversing the backroads of the city)
Satun is quiet and has a relaxed and slow vibe about it. Not
a lot happens and there are months that can be boring if you are staying for a
long period of time. But all in all, if you want to experience another culture,
you are in a very unique place to do so. You get a taste of Malay culture and
the Muslim and Buddhist traditions. Westerners are a bit of a novelty here and
you will be stared at, shouted “HELLO” too and asked to pose for hundreds of
photos with complete strangers. Sometimes it can get annoying but for the most
part it is kinda funny. When in Satun, be respectful and take everything with a
grain of salt. If your head and your heart are not in the right place, you may
not enjoy your time in Satun. But if you are willing to make it work and take a
chance, you’ll discover all the little things that make Satun a wonderful little
community.
(Playing "Where's Waldo" with the many temples)
